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by Mary Pinckney Waters


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September 30, 2005 - Oktoberfest - Crowding Traditions

If you ask me, the planners of Oktoberfest set their sights a little high this year.

The event’s Web site reads: "People from all over the world will enjoy Bavarian hospitality, food, and -- of course -- the famous Oktoberfest beer." Sounds good, doesn’t it? I mean, theoretically, at least.

But as I ventured for the first time to Munich’s Oktoberfest on Saturday with two busloads of other Bamberg exchange students, the festival’s 6 million-attendee crowd looked slightly bigger -- and more quicksand-like -- than I had imagined.

Navigating through the thirsty throngs felt like trying to swim inside a washing machine. Feet and elbows at every turn. Three languages in each ear. Ten minutes between every street.

Our group had an hour to grab some lunch before meeting at Marienplatz a few blocks away for a city tour. Against all odds, we secured food, slithered our way around Munich, and proceeded to plow through any and all obstructing body parts toward Oktoberfest’s carnival grounds.

As we approached the much-famed Oktoberfest, I rubbed my knuckles over my eyelids. Was that cluster of haunted houses and collapsible rollercoasters really it, the Oktoberfest? Because I would have sworn it was the S.C. State Fair if the people had been wearing Confederate flag T-shirts instead of Lederhosen and suspenders. Not to mention that a healthy fraction of the German male population had the mullet hairstyle down pat. Mullet-meisters, I tell you.

Call me crazy, but for some reason, I had been under the impression that Oktoberfest was about German tradition. The event originated in 1810 as a celebration of Prince Ludwig and Princess Therese’s wedding. Apparently it has since been decided that bumper cars, rides that drop you 100 feet per second, and 20-euro Oktoberfest T-shirts were the best way to carry on that celebration.

Needless to say, my colleagues and I were disappointed. We wanted a taste of old-fashioned, authentic German culture. We only had one hope left: beer.

As monstrous as the beer tents were, they were teeming with people and impatience. In order to buy a beer, you had to find a seat in the tent, which, of course, required actually entering the tent first.

We stood outside a tent 30 long, sober minutes before a drunken Austrian was escorted out for dancing on tables. After he explained to us, between slurs, that he had waited three hours to enter the tent, we decided that Oktoberfest was one tradition that we could do without.

Plan B: Four of us went back to Munich’s center and drank liter beers in front of Das Neues Rathaus (The New Town Hall), a 19th-century building with 32 statues. We raised our drinks to “Italien” at least 10 times with a party from Rome at the neighboring table. And from 1:30 a.m. to 6:30 a.m. we rode the train home with other worn-out fest-goers.

We were having so much fun that we couldn’t tell if we were dreaming, but the four of us vowed to have the same dream again and again.

Utimately, the Oktoberfest tradition wasn’t all it was cracked up to be. I guess the best knowledge really is first-hand knowledge, and the best traditions are the ones you create.


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Mary Pinckney Waters welcomes your comments and feedback: marypwaters@yahoo.com

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