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by Mary Pinckney Waters


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December 1 , 2005 - Weather or not

We all know what happens when it snows in South Carolina. Everyone almost has a heart attack -- either because they're so excited about building the best snowman the world's ever seen, or because they're blanched by fear of driving on roads layered with an inch of snow that will melt in 30 minutes.

Growing up in the South, a child is instilled with a unique instinct: as soon as the kid sitting next to him in class tells him it's snowing, his eyes dart to the clock, ready to place bets on how long it'll take before school is canceled. Snow in the Palmetto State equals a suspension of time, a brief passage through the twilight zone, as everyone takes advantage of a rare glitch in Mother Nature.

Needless to say, that is not the case in Germany. Nature is obviously on-task when drenching Bamberg in white, and my South Carolinian impulses still have some adjusting to do. The first day it snowed, my age plummeted 10 years. No, wait, that would make me only 11, and I was definitely acting younger than that. Woah, I am getting old. 15 years and I'm six. Yes, that's better. Well, better-suiting-the-circumstances, not better-Mary-feeling-young.

Anyway, along with the 15-year age drop, my voice shot up two octaves. "Let's go play! Let's go play!" I gushed in an obscenely high-pitched voice, only to receive "the American is going crazy" stares from my German friends, to whom seeing snow is like sweating to a South Carolinian. "Wirst du dich jedes Mal so verhalten, wenn es schneit?" they asked, with a somewhat-terrified expression. ("Are you going to act like this every time it snows?")

No, I'm not. The phenomenon of crunching footprints in the soft ice evaporated within the first week of snow, as it is really only possible in those precious, virginal morning hours before the nine-to-fivers' stampede starts deflowering the beauty of that first night's snowfall. From that point on, the ground's snowy blanket continues to lose it purity, as shades of muddy browns pollute milky whites to form a slushy, slip-and-slide surface that you wish you could sue someone over. If only this were America ....

And the thought of canceling anything? The Germans think it's a good joke, apparently. My opinion is, however, if you have any motivational problems whatsoever, cold whether is going to solve them as much as voice lessons are going to help Ashlee Simpson become a good singer. (Of course, I wouldn't imagine Hawaii-esque climate would be particularly work-inspiring, either.) It has been my experience that upon returning to my apartment around 17:00 (5 p.m.) -- when it is already pitch-black dark -- I have no further desire to leave a heated, closed-in structure until the next day, when classes necessitate it. That's right, this exchange is really allowing me to see the world -- and the world has four white walls and is nice and toasty.

However, when I have suppressed my inner South Carolinian and ventured out into the winter wilderness, I've managed to find ways of forgetting how awesome it is to still feel your toes, and I've even learned to appreciate the cold weather. This weekend, for example, a friend and I traveled to the famous "Weihnachtsmarkt" (Christmas market) in Nürnberg, a big city about 45 minutes from Bamberg, where we did some holiday shopping and warmed up with a couple mugs of "Glühwein," a hot wine served in Germany at countless vendors during the winter months.

A toy Santa, some Apfelstrudel and a cup of Glühwein can make a harsh winter more tolerable, but I'll definitely be happy when I'm back in the South and people question my sanity when it snows and I don't show signs of hysteria.


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Mary Pinckney Waters welcomes your comments and feedback: marypwaters@yahoo.com

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